Issue 104 · July 8, 2026
The Grain Beneath Glass
Theme: Transparency Earned Slowly
Issue 104 explores the tension between what we see and what lies underneath—spirits and wines that reveal their true nature only to those willing to look closely.

Every bottle on a shelf presents a surface. Color, label, proof—these are the obvious signals. But the real story lives deeper: in the grain bill a distiller chose before dawn, in the vineyard row a winemaker walked a hundred times before deciding when to pick, in the still cut that separated good spirit from great. This issue is about that hidden architecture, the structural decisions that only show themselves in the glass.
Today's eight selections reward patience and attention. From a high-rye bourbon that punches above its price to a white wine that captures coastal minerality in every sip, each bottle here was chosen because it reveals something honest about its origins. Pour slowly. Pay attention. The grain beneath the glass has something to say.
Don’t see your special bottle? Request a review at reviews.schoolofwineandspirits.com/request-review — we’ll get to it. See every bottle we’ve reviewed to date at reviews.schoolofwineandspirits.com.
Bourbon New Riff Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey Bottled in Bond
Founded in 2014 by former liquor retailer Ken Lewis in Newport, Kentucky, New Riff Distilling committed from day one to bottled-in-bond production with no chill filtration—a rare transparency pledge in an industry rife with shortcuts.
Classification: Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey (Bottled in Bond)
Brand: New Riff
Distillery: New Riff Distilling
Proof: 100 (50% ABV)
Age: 4 Year
Color: Rich amber with copper highlights
MSRP: $40–$50
Mash Bill: 65% corn, 30% rye, 5% malted barley
Barrel Type: New charred American oak (53-gallon)
Bottled in Bond: Yes
Nose: Caramel and rye spice hit first, followed by baked apple and a waft of toasted oak. There is a subtle floral quality underneath—almost carnation—that becomes more pronounced with time in the glass.
Palate: Medium-full body with a burst of brown spice and butterscotch. Corn sweetness anchors the mid-palate while charred oak and a peppery rye note add tension. A touch of leather emerges on the second sip.
Finish: Moderate to long, with charred oak and lingering caramel sweetness. A dry rye spice lingers at the edges.
Cocktail — Newport Old Fashioned — 2 oz New Riff BiB · 0.25 oz demerara syrup · 3 dashes Angostura bitters · Stir over ice, strain into rocks glass over large cube, garnish with orange peel.
Pair with: Smoked pork belly with apple chutney
Scotch Whisky Tomatin 18 Year Old Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Nestled high in the Scottish Highlands near Inverness, Tomatin Distillery has operated since 1897 and was once Scotland's largest-capacity distillery—though it's the restraint and precision of their current small-batch approach that defines this 18-year expression.
Classification: Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Brand: Tomatin
Distillery: Tomatin Distillery
Proof: 92 (46% ABV)
Age: 18 Year
Color: Deep gold with amber edges
MSRP: $90–$110
Region: Highlands
Mash Bill: 100% malted barley
Distillation: Copper pot still, double distilled
Maturation: First-fill oloroso sherry casks and refill bourbon barrels
Cask Type: Oloroso sherry casks and refill bourbon barrels
Peat Level (PPM): 0
Chill-Filtered: Non-chill filtered
Nose: Ripe peach and dried apricot lead, supported by honeyed malt and a whisper of oloroso sherry influence. A faint vanilla thread connects to toasted oak notes underneath.
Palate: Silky and medium-bodied, with honey and buttery shortbread giving way to clove spice and a gentle cocoa note. Dried fruit swells mid-palate, balanced by a clean malt backbone.
Finish: Long and warming, with woody spice and lingering dried fruit. A soft vanilla sweetness closes things out gracefully.
Cocktail — Highland Rob Roy — 2 oz Tomatin 18 · 1 oz sweet vermouth · 2 dashes orange bitters · Stir with ice, strain into coupe, garnish with brandied cherry.
Pair with: Roasted duck breast with fig glaze
Awards: Gold Medal, San Francisco World Spirits Competition 2023
Irish Whiskey Glendalough Double Barrel Single Grain Irish Whiskey
Five friends from Dublin founded Glendalough Distillery in 2011 in the Wicklow Mountains, drawing on wild botanicals and the region's monastic distilling heritage to craft spirits that reflect the rugged landscape of Ireland's Garden County.
Classification: Single Grain Irish Whiskey
Brand: Glendalough
Distillery: Glendalough Distillery
Proof: 84 (42% ABV)
Age: NAS
Color: Pale gold with straw highlights
MSRP: $30–$40
Mash Bill: Corn and malted barley
Distillation: Column distilled
Maturation: Bourbon barrels, finished in oloroso sherry casks
Chill-Filtered: Chill filtered
Nose: Green cut grass and fresh pear open the nose, followed by creamy vanilla and a touch of coconut. A light honeyed sweetness rounds out a surprisingly complex introduction for a grain whiskey.
Palate: Light to medium body with buttery cereal and a burst of orchard fruit. The bourbon barrel finishing adds caramel warmth, while a floral note—faint rosewater—adds unexpected dimension. The grain base keeps things clean and approachable.
Finish: Short to medium, with vanilla and a lingering green freshness. Clean and crisp exit.
Cocktail — Wicklow Highball — 2 oz Glendalough Double Barrel · 4 oz chilled sparkling water · 0.5 oz honey syrup · Squeeze of lemon · Build over ice in highball glass, stir gently, garnish with lemon wheel.
Pair with: Smoked salmon on brown bread with dill cream
Tequila Gran Centenario Plata Tequila
Produced at the historic La Rojeña distillery in Tequila, Jalisco—one of the oldest active distilleries in Latin America—Gran Centenario carries over 160 years of continuous production knowledge into every bottle of its agave-forward Plata.
Classification: Tequila Blanco (Plata)
Brand: Gran Centenario
Distillery: La Rojeña Distillery
Proof: 80 (40% ABV)
Age: NAS
Color: Crystal clear with silver brilliance
MSRP: $25–$35
Agave: 100% Blue Weber Agave
Cooking Method: Slow-cooked in traditional stone ovens, double distilled in copper pot stills, brief rest in new American oak
NOM: NOM 1122
Nose: Bright cooked agave and citrus zest—lime and grapefruit—dominate the opening. Green herbal notes and a subtle white pepper follow. A faint minerality emerges underneath, suggesting volcanic soil.
Palate: Clean entry with agave sweetness balanced by grassy freshness. Citrus continues on the palate with added depth from a slight yeasty, bready quality. White pepper builds gently toward the back.
Finish: Medium length, with a clean agave fade and a peppery warmth that lingers. Refreshingly dry.
Cocktail — Centenario Paloma — 2 oz Gran Centenario Plata · 0.75 oz fresh lime juice · 0.5 oz grapefruit juice · 0.25 oz agave nectar · Top with grapefruit soda · Build over ice in salt-rimmed Collins glass, garnish with grapefruit wedge.
Pair with: Ceviche with mango and serrano chile
Gin Death's Door Gin
Born from a partnership between a Washington Island wheat farmer and a distiller seeking to revive the island's agricultural economy, Death's Door Gin uses just juniper, coriander, and fennel seed over a locally-grown grain base—a minimalist manifesto distilled.
Classification: American Dry Gin
Brand: Death's Door
Distillery: Death's Door Spirits
Proof: 94 (47% ABV)
Age: NAS
Color: Crystal clear
MSRP: $30–$40
Style: American Dry
Botanicals: Juniper berries, coriander seed, fennel seed
Base Spirit: Hard red winter wheat and malted barley
Distillation: Pot distilled
Nose: Juniper leads cleanly but without aggression, joined by coriander seed and a fennel-like sweetness. Gentle citrus—lemon zest—drifts through with a faintly peppery edge.
Palate: Medium-bodied with a surprisingly round mouthfeel from the wheat-and-barley base spirit. Juniper stays present and herbaceous, while coriander adds warm spice. A subtle fennel sweetness persists through the mid-palate, balanced by a dry, peppery finish.
Finish: Medium length, with lingering juniper and a dry, spicy close. Clean and refreshing.
Cocktail — Door County Gimlet — 2 oz Death's Door Gin · 0.75 oz fresh lime juice · 0.75 oz simple syrup · Shake with ice, strain into chilled coupe, garnish with lime wheel.
Pair with: Fresh oysters with mignonette
Rum Plantation Fiji Islands 2017 Single Cask
Distilled at South Pacific Distilleries in Lautoka, Fiji, in 2017 and double-aged—first in tropical Fijian conditions, then in French cognac casks at Maison Ferrand in Ars—this single cask expression reveals how climate and cask can reshape the same spirit.
Classification: Single Cask Aged Rum
Brand: Plantation
Distillery: South Pacific Distilleries
Proof: 100.4 (50.2% ABV)
Age: 5-Year
Color: Warm amber with golden highlights
MSRP: $50–$70
Base Ingredients: Sugarcane molasses
Distillation: Pot still blend
Nose: Tropical fruits—pineapple and mango—burst from the glass alongside rich vanilla and coconut. Deeper underneath, toffee and toasted oak provide a warm foundation. A hint of citrus zest brightens the edges.
Palate: Full-bodied and viscous, with caramel and molasses sweetness balanced by oak spice and a dry tannic grip. Tropical fruits continue from the nose, joined by a subtle coffee note mid-palate. The cask strength proof carries everything without heat.
Finish: Long and layered, with toffee, oak, and a lingering tropical fruit sweetness. Spice gently fades to a clean, warm close.
Cocktail — Fiji Daiquiri — 2 oz Plantation Fiji 2017 · 0.75 oz fresh lime juice · 0.5 oz pineapple syrup · Shake with ice, double strain into chilled coupe, garnish with pineapple leaf.
Pair with: Coconut-crusted prawns with chili-lime dip
Red Wine Domaine Roulot Monthelie Rouge 2021
Jean-Marc Roulot, celebrated globally for his Meursault whites, crafts this Monthelie Rouge from old-vine Pinot Noir on the limestone slopes between Volnay and Meursault—a quiet red from a domaine where white wine gets all the headlines.
Classification: Monthelie Rouge AOC
Brand: Domaine Roulot
ABV: 13%
Primary Varietal: Pinot Noir
Blend: 100% Pinot Noir
Vineyards: Monthelie village parcels, limestone and clay soils
Maturation: Partial whole-cluster fermentation, gentle extraction, aged 14 months in French oak (15% new)
Color: Bright ruby with garnet rim
MSRP: $50–$70
Nose: Fresh cherry and crushed raspberry lead, with a violet floral note adding perfume. Underneath, subtle earthy tones and a touch of toasted oak emerge, grounding the fruit.
Palate: Medium-bodied with silky tannins and a vibrant acidity that keeps the wine energetic. Cherry fruit continues from the nose, joined by a savory, almost gamey quality and a whisper of cedar. The oak influence is restrained, present only as structure.
Finish: Medium length, with cherry and violet lingering alongside fine-grained tannins. Clean and refreshing.
Pair with: Roasted guinea fowl with wild mushrooms
White Wine Domaine de la Garrelière Touraine Sauvignon Blanc Cendrillon 2023
François Plouzeau has farmed his family's estate in Razines, Touraine, biodynamically since 2006, coaxing wines of startling minerality and purity from Sauvignon Blanc vines grown on silex and clay soils above the Vienne River.
Classification: Touraine AOC
Brand: Domaine de la Garrelière
ABV: 12.5%
Primary Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc
Blend: 100% Sauvignon Blanc
Vineyards: Estate vineyards in Razines, silex and clay soils
Vinification: Whole-cluster pressed, spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts, aged on fine lees in stainless steel
Color: Pale straw with green-gold glints
MSRP: $18–$25
Nose: Bright gooseberry and green apple open the nose, followed by cut grass and a touch of white floral. A flinty minerality runs beneath, giving the aromatics a sense of precision.
Palate: Crisp and lean with vibrant acidity. Citrus and gooseberry dominate, supported by a green herbal note and a faint chalky texture on the mid-palate. The biodynamic farming reads as purity—nothing extraneous, nothing masked.
Finish: Clean and brisk, with lingering citrus and a mineral snap. Refreshing and precise.
Pair with: Fresh chèvre with garden herbs and radishes
Train Your Nose: Today's Aroma Spotlight
Today's aroma focus is on transparency—the flavors that reveal origin rather than mask it. From the rye spice of a Kentucky bourbon to the gooseberry snap of Loire Sauvignon Blanc, each aroma anchors us to a place and a process.
Each product in today's lineup connects to a specific aroma profile you can train with your kit. Whether it's the charred oak of the bourbon, the coastal brine of the scotch, or the agave earthiness of the tequila — your nose is the instrument. Use the kit references below to isolate each aroma before your next pour, then see if you catch it in the glass.
Today's Kit Reference
| Today's Product | Key Aromas | Train With |
|---|---|---|
| New Riff Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey Bottled in Bond (Bourbon) | Caramel, Rye, Butterscotch, Charred Oak, Leather | Bourbon Kit |
| Tomatin 18 Year Old Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky (Scotch Whisky) | Peach, Honey, Clove Spice, Dried Fruit, Vanilla, Woody | Whisky Kit |
| Glendalough Double Barrel Single Grain Irish Whiskey (Irish Whiskey) | Green (Cut Grass), Vanilla, Coconut, Honey, Buttery | Whiskey Kit |
| Gran Centenario Plata Tequila (Tequila) | Agave (Cooked), Citrus (Lemon, Lime, Orange, Grapefruit), Grass, Pepper, Earth (Mineral, Soil Notes) | Tequila Kit |
| Death's Door Gin (Gin) | Juniper (Herbaceous/Waxy), Coriander, Lemon, Peppery | Gin Kit |
| Plantation Fiji Islands 2017 Single Cask (Rum) | Tropical Fruits, Vanilla, Coconut, Toffee, Oak, Coffee | Rum Kit |
| Domaine Roulot Monthelie Rouge 2021 (Red Wine) | Cherry, Violet, Gamey, Cedar, Berry (Generic) | Wine Kit |
| Domaine de la Garrelière Touraine Sauvignon Blanc Cendrillon 2023 (White Wine) | Gooseberry, Apple (Green), Green (Cut Grass), Citrus (Generic), Mint | Wine Kit |
Explore the School of Wine and Spirits
Train your palate to see through the glass with our curated aroma kits, designed to isolate the exact markers found in today's selections. Our Aroma Masterclass Kits are designed to teach it to you, one aroma at a time.
Our books on Amazon go deeper into the science and history behind every sip — from America's Spirit, Scotland's Spirit, Ireland's Spirit, The Ultimate Northern Italian Wine Journey, The Tequila y Mezcal Revolution, Chablis, and Côte d'Or pocket guides.
Explore our Aroma Masterclass kits and books at schoolofwineandspirits.com
Join the School of Wine and Spirits Community
Connect with fellow connoisseurs, share tasting notes, and go deeper into every pour.
Sign up at skool.com/schoolofwineandspirits
The grain beneath the glass only speaks to those who've learned how to listen—start training your senses today.
Know someone who'd love this? Forward this newsletter or share the link — and reply with your own tasting notes. We read every one.
Until tomorrow's pour — cheers.
Robert R. Mohr, CPA, CGMA, WSET Level 3, WSG Certified Spirits Specialist — author of America's Spirit, Scotland's Spirit, Ireland's Spirit, The Ultimate Northern Italian Wine Journey, The Tequila y Mezcal Revolution, The Definitive Pocket Guide to Chablis, The Definitive Pocket Guide to the Côte d'Or, and Strategic Tuning. Published author of the Aroma Academy Tequila/Mezcal and Distiller's training kits.
The Still & The Vine is a daily publication of the School of Wine and Spirits.

New Riff Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey Bottled in Bond
New Riff
New Riff's BiB is proof that transparency in production translates to transparency in the glass. The non-chill-filtered, sour mash approach with a high-rye mash bill produces a bourbon of clarity and conviction. At this price point, it overdelivers consistently.

Tomatin 18 Year Old Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Tomatin
Tomatin 18 is one of the Highlands' most underrated age-statement malts. The combination of first-fill oloroso sherry casks and refill bourbon barrels creates a layered, elegant whisky that never shouts. It rewards careful attention with steady, deepening complexity.

Glendalough Double Barrel Single Grain Irish Whiskey
Glendalough
Glendalough's Double Barrel single grain challenges the assumption that grain whiskey is inherently less interesting than malt or pot still. The double maturation—first in bourbon barrels, then in oloroso sherry casks—adds layers that the grain base delivers with transparency. An excellent introduction to Irish grain whiskey.

Gran Centenario Plata Tequila
Gran Centenario
Gran Centenario Plata demonstrates that entry-level tequila need not sacrifice character. The selección suave process—a brief rest in new American oak—adds a whisper of complexity without masking the agave. This is an honest blanco that works beautifully in cocktails but merits straight sipping on its own.

Death's Door Gin
Death's Door
Death's Door proves that a short botanical bill—just three botanicals—can produce a gin of remarkable depth. The base spirit, made from hard red winter wheat and malted barley grown on Washington Island, Wisconsin, provides a creamy foundation. This is a gin that trusts its ingredients rather than hiding behind complexity.

Plantation Fiji Islands 2017 Single Cask
Plantation
This Fiji single cask bottling from Plantation delivers the transparency that the series is designed to showcase—a specific distillery, a specific year, a single cask's personality on display. The double aging in Fiji and then in Ferrand cognac casks in France adds structural complexity while preserving the distillery's characteristically lush tropical profile.

Domaine Roulot Monthelie Rouge 2021
Domaine Roulot
Jean-Marc Roulot is rightly famous for his whites, but this Monthelie Rouge demonstrates his sensitivity to Pinot Noir as well. The 2021 vintage gives bright fruit and good acidity, and Roulot's light hand in the cellar allows the terroir to speak. A Burgundy red that offers genuine transparency of place at a fraction of premier cru pricing.

Domaine de la Garrelière Touraine Sauvignon Blanc Cendrillon 2023
Domaine de la Garrelière
This biodynamic Sauvignon Blanc from the southern Loire offers a study in transparency. François Plouzeau's estate, certified biodynamic since 2006, produces wines that taste like the soil they come from. The Cendrillon bottling is all tension and minerality—Sauvignon Blanc stripped to its essentials, with nothing to hide and nothing wasted.
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